INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE INSTALLATION OF TURF
- From the arrival of the turf rolls you must ensure that the lawn carpet does not dry out before installation! In summer the turf rolls should be placed in the shade. In case of excessive humidity, especially in hot weather, the sod starts to hatch and the blades of grass turn brown - shade must also be provided from the rain. It would be best to lay down the carpet within 48 hours, then the appearance is still fresh.
- The grass is installed on prepared and leveled soil. A suitable growing soil layer thickness is at least 15 cm, ideally more than 25 cm. The thinner the soil layer, the more often you have to deal with maintenance later, e.g. fertilize, water
- Before placing (unrolling) the lawn, give the soil permanent lawn fertilizer 30-40 g per square meter
- Place the pieces of grass closely next to each other so that there are no gaps. The tiles must then be lightly pressed; pay special attention to the edges!
Immediately after installation, the turf must be properly watered!
- After watering, it is not recommended to step on the lawn - on softer soil, there is a risk of the tiles moving out of place - the result will later be "scorched" yellow edges, soil particles and an uneven surface that is difficult to mow.
- During dry season the watering must be continued for approx. 14 days until the turf starts rooting. Shade grass, which is a poorer rooter, must be checked for rooting - if it has not yet taken root, continue watering until the turf is properly attached to the ground. Being generous with watering pays off immediately and vice versa!
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MAINTENANCE OF TURF
- After laying the grass, care must be taken to ensure that the grass does not dry out before it takes root. To avoid this, in the first 2 weeks (until the final rooting!), it is necessary to water the grass abundantly, to soak it.
- During the first three weeks after planting it is not advised to fertilise from above. Immediate fertilization slows down the grass's rooting, i.e. attracts the roots of the plants to the surface layer.
- The first mowing should be approx. a week from planting at a height of 6 - 7 cm.
- If piles of grass remain on the surface after mowing, they must be scattered or picked up, otherwise the grass under them will be destroyed.
- You should not mow in wet weather, the mower tracks will remain on the grass.
- During dry season the grass should be watered not so often but plenty every time as befits older lawns. This attracts the roots of the grass deeper into the soil and the grass is not as sensitive. Frequent shy watering of the lawn makes the lawn prone to drought in the long run.
- If spaces appear in the lawn, sow additional seed mixture in them.
- After about a month, the lawn can be fertilized. In the first half of summer, with permanent lawn fertilizer (25-2-4) or Kemira nitrogen-rich fertilizer (18-9-9). In the second half of the summer, with potassium sulfate (0-0-40) or another fertilizer rich in potassium and low in nitrogen.
- After a month, the grass can be mowed at a suitable height (min. 3cm). The frequency of mowing depends on the growth rate of the plants. Do not remove more than 1/3 of the height of the plants at a time, otherwise the roots will stop growing.
- During the first month, the transplanted grass cannot be stepped on strongly, it can damage the developing root system.
- When planting turf late in autumn the rooting is thus delayed until the next spring and one should be extremely careful - additional watering when necessary and do not tread until fully rooted!
INSTALLATION ON A SLOPE
- The soil must be properly compacted! Anything that is looser will collapse later or tend to flow down more easily in case of flood waters.
- Add fertilizer.
- Rather install with a slight margin - the upper edge of the lower tile will be under the upper tile. Pat tighter and secure the joint with stakes. When tearing the sides together, it dries up, the gap sinks in.
- Secure with stakes. In the case of a smaller slope or a shorter slope, it is sufficient to fix it with bamboo barbecue sticks.
- Make sure the turf is in good contact with the soil - pat if necessary. Better contact with the ground ensures faster and stronger rooting.
- Water thoroughly! It's like the first trial by fire - it will stay, or it will sink
SLOPE MAINTENANCE
Purpose of lawn maintenance on a steep slope:
1. The grass must be permanently green
2. The grass must not lie down
1. The grass must be permanently green
2. The grass must not lie down
- If the grass starts to turn yellow and it is not due to dryness, a water-soluble NPK complete fertilizer (e.g. Ferticare 14-11-25) must be added to the irrigation water in a maximum 8% solution (8 kg per 100 liters of water)
- If the grass is more or less green , there is no need to fertilize - it unnecessarily accelerates growth, but tall grass tends to lie down.
- To prevent collapse, the grass must be mowed with a hover mower 2-4 times during the summer (more if necessary).
- In the autumn make certain that the grass is not too tall before snow covers it. Mow if necessary.
CARE OF LAWN LOCATED ON A THIN SOIL LAYER
The thinner the humus layer that is planned under the lawn, the greater the later expenses: more watering and fertilizing, possibly also lichen control.
- If the humus layer is very thin, the grass must be watered regularly.
- Once a month, add a water-soluble NPK fertilizer to the irrigation water - 8 kg (e.g. Ferticare 14-11-25) per 100 liters of water.
- Mow regularly, not lower than 4-6 cm.
- If clumps of grass remained on the lawn after mowing, they must be picked up. Brushing in a dry and sparse lawn will create a thicker layer of humus on the lawn over time.